Earlier this month, the Italian fashion house Prada showcased T-strap sandals during its runway show in Milan, sparking significant reactions on Indian social media.
The sandals bore a striking resemblance to the Kolhapuri chappal, a traditional handcrafted leather shoe worn by millions in India. Named after Kolhapur, a town in Maharashtra, these sandals are integral to India's cultural heritage.
The backlash against Prada grew, with accusations of design theft and cultural appropriation. Many called for the luxury brand to acknowledge India's contributions to fashion. This response reflects a changing attitude among Indians, who are increasingly vocal about their cultural recognition on the global stage.
In response to concerns raised by the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture, Prada executives issued an apology. The Prada Group acknowledged that sandals inspired by traditional Indian footwear were part of their Men’s 2026 Spring Summer collection.
The company stated its intention to engage in dialogue with local Indian artisan communities and mentioned ongoing discussions with Maharashtra authorities.
Fashion columnist Kanika Gahlaut noted that the controversy illustrates fears that Prada might profit from the Kolhapuri design without benefiting the original artisans. However, she mentioned that there is no legal foundation for the outrage, as it remains unclear what commercial plans Prada has for the sandals.
The current design collection is still under development, with no confirmed plans for production. This incident recalls a previous controversy involving designer Paul Smith, who faced backlash for a sandal resembling the Peshawari chappal from Pakistan, which was eventually marketed after a name change.
Geographical indication tags, which protect regional products, were granted to Kolhapuri sandals by the Indian government in 2019. While Prada could legally sell Kolhapuri-inspired footwear if sourced from the designated regions, it would be expected to acknowledge the local artisans.
Intellectual property lawyer Priyam Lizmary Cherian noted that while Prada's description was technically accurate, the lack of initial credit created an ethical issue. She suggested that acknowledgment from the start could have mitigated the backlash.
India's growing emphasis on protecting its cultural heritage is evident, particularly as its products gain international attention. However, this cultural pride can sometimes lead to extreme nationalism, according to designer Raghavendra Rathore.
Rathore expressed pride in seeing Indian cultural symbols gain recognition abroad, suggesting that the exposure of Kolhapuri sandals on a global platform should be celebrated. He argued that increased visibility could ultimately benefit local artisans, as demonstrated by a surge in social media advertisements for Kolhapuri sandals since the controversy began.
This incident highlights the complex interplay between cultural representation, intellectual property rights, and the global fashion industry.