The vineyards of Kakheti, a prominent wine-producing region in the Republic of Georgia, have experienced another successful harvest. Winemakers are currently deliberating on whether to focus their efforts on the Russian market or to seek opportunities in the West.
Levan Eloshvili, a local winemaker, prepared to transport a load of grapes to a nearby factory for wine production, with some of the output destined for Russia. Meanwhile, Kakha Tchotiashvili at a small winery is crafting refined wines intended for European and American markets.
The ongoing debate among winemakers reflects a broader national discussion about Georgia's geopolitical orientation. Many younger Georgians and urban residents advocate for closer ties with Europe, while others emphasize the importance of maintaining economic stability through relations with Russia.
Historically, the Russian market has been crucial for Georgia’s winemakers, especially after sanctions on Italian and French wines increased demand for Georgian products. However, many producers are now advocating for a shift away from dependence on Russia to pursue more lucrative markets in Europe and the United States.
Tchotiashvili believes that by moving away from the Russian market, Georgian winemakers can enhance their profits by selling premium wines in the West. He emphasizes the cultural significance of their wines, stating, “We are not simply selling wine, we are selling our culture.”
In contrast, much of the wine exported to Russia consists of cheaper, sweeter varieties sold in bulk. Tina Kezeli, head of Georgia’s wine association, notes that the Russian market is politically volatile, highlighting the risks associated with reliance on it.
Despite the political tensions, almost 70 percent of Georgia’s wine production, valued at over $214 million, has been exported to Russia this year, marking a significant increase compared to previous years.
Wine is deeply embedded in Georgian culture, with a history of cultivation spanning over 8,000 years. Traditional practices remain prevalent, and many Georgians engage in winemaking at home.
During the Soviet era, individual winemaking was restricted, leading to a legacy of low-quality production. However, the Georgian wine industry has undergone a transformation over the past two decades, with a growing focus on quality and traditional methods.
Giorgi Dakishvili, a pioneer in high-quality winemaking, acknowledges the instability of the Russian market, despite its familiarity for Georgian products. He reflects on the impact of past trade bans that prompted innovation and market diversification among winemakers.
Some winemakers, like Zurab Mgvdiashvili, have chosen to forgo the Russian market altogether, citing personal and political reasons. He produces a limited quantity of natural wines primarily sold in New York, contrasting sharply with the industrial-scale production of larger wineries that dominate the Russian market.
As the debate continues, industry leaders are exploring ways to enhance the reputation and reach of Georgian wines globally, with a focus on quality and sustainable practices.